Cleat Installation
Proper cleat installation is key to getting the best fit and performance from your Lake shoes. It affects your pedaling efficiency, comfort, and long-term joint health. Whether you're setting up road, mountain, or gravel cleats, it’s important to align them carefully. Follow our step-by-step guide or consult a bike fitter for optimal results.
2-bolt Style MTB Cleat Installation:
Lake Cycling MTB Shoes are designed to be compatible with 2 bolt style MTB pedals. In some cases with some brands the cleat to pedal interface can be obstructed due to variations in cleat & pedal designs. In this situation it is important that care is taken when installing cleats to insure there is enough clearance for the cleat to properly engage to the pedal & allow for smooth pressure free pedal engagement & pedaling.
- Failure to properly install pedals for pressure free engagement will damage the shoe sole which will result in rubber sole damage &/or rubber sole separation.
- Failure to follow these directions for MTB cleat clearance checking will void warranties related to sole damage &/or separation at the cleat pocket.
- Spring Binder Style pedals that rest tension binders on the shoe sole must use Shoe Shield or Shims that are provided by the pedal manufacturers. The shields protect the shoe sole from friction and eventual sole breaking.
Spring Binder style pedals include & are not limited to the following brands: Crank Brothers®; Look®; Time®; HT® Cleat Installation Instructions and Fitment Tips:
Option 1: Using cleat spacers supplied by pedal manufacture or purchased separately to install the cleat with a 0.25-1mm gap between the cleat bottom & sole bottom. The desired gap is 0.25-1mm between the cleat & the ground.
Option 2: If cleat spacer is not available trim away the rubber lugs to achieve the desired gap of 0.25mm-1mm between cleat & the ground.

Cleat Bolt Lubrication: Apply grease to the cleat bolt threads to insure that the bolts do not corrode, rust or seize in the cleat nut.
Cleat Bolt Torque Spec: Each pedal manufacture uses various levels & quality of metal for their hardware. For best results consult the pedal brands instruction manual for the most current & correct Torque spec to avoid stripping the Cleat Bolt & Cleat Nut.
Common brands torque spec:
- Shimano® SPD®: 5-6 N-m (43-52 in-lbs)
- Crank Brothers®: 4 N-m (35.4 in-lbs)
- Time® ATAC: 5 N-m (44.25 in-lbs)
3-Bolt Style Road Cleat Installation:
Please use bolt grease and follow the pedal manufactures recommended torque specification. Install all bolts finger tight first, then alternate tightening each bolt until reaching the specified torque spec.
Common brands torque spec:
- Shimano® 3-hole road: 5-6 N-m (43-52 in-lbs)
- Time® ICLIC: 4.5 N-m (39.83 in-lbs)
4-Bolt Style Road Cleat Installation:
Please use bolt grease and follow the pedal manufactures recommended torque specification. Install all bolts finger tight first, then alternate tightening each bolt until reaching the specified torque spec.
Common brands torque spec:
- Speedplay's Maximum Mounting Screw Torque: 35 in-lbs (4 N-m) for the adapter to the shoe sole
- Speedplay's Maximum Mounting Screw Torque: 25 in-lbs (3 N-m) for the cleat to the adapter
To avoid damaging your cycling shoe soles, it’s important to replace your cleats once they show significant wear. As cleats wear down, they can allow the pedal body to make direct contact with the sole, leading to scuffing, gouging, or even structural damage—especially on carbon soles. If you notice rocking while clipped in or see visible wear on the cleat edges, it’s time for a replacement. Regular cleat checks and timely replacement will help protect your shoes and ensure optimal pedal engagement.
Observation of Damage
- The sole, particularly around the area just behind the cleat, shows gouging and scuffing, which suggests direct contact between the pedal body and the shoe sole.
- The cleat edges appear worn—especially the front portion—which can allow more movement (rocking) when clipped in.
- The scratches on the carbon sole surface (around the mounting holes) appear to be caused by friction, consistent with the pedal rubbing during use.
Likely Cause
The most likely cause of this damage is:
- Worn cleats – As they wear down, the pedal platform sits closer to the sole, increasing the chance of direct contact.
- Rocking movement – If the shoe or cleat rocks slightly when clipped in, the pedal can grind against the shoe sole.
- Pedal design/fit – Some pedals with wide platforms or sharp edges can exacerbate this if the cleat height is reduced from wear.
What You Can Do
- Replace the cleats to restore proper clearance and minimize pedal-to-sole contact.
- Check pedal wear or sharp edges, which might also be contributing.
- Consider using cleat shims or spacers if clearance is still an issue even with new cleats.
